This Losar to Taktsang

The famous Tiger's Nest is a very popular destination for not just the Bhutanese but for almost every tourist who visits Bhutan. This holy place of worship is famous for its spectacular location on a breath-taking cliff that could momentarily shiver even the most daring skydiver. While it carries its history to the great Guru Padmasambhava, Milarepa, Pema Lingpa and many other legendary figures and saints of Tibetan and Bhutanese descents, the temple is said to have been constructed in 17th century by Tenzin Rabgay.
In spite of a major fire and destruction caused to many important parts of the monastery and its relics in 1998, the temple has been reconstructed to its original sacredness and even more grandeur infra structure.

On 22nd February, the Losar of the Year of the Dragon, I decided to make my fourth visit to this marvelous site, this time with my entire family and some relatives. The journey is shortened almost by 50% after the road has reached to the base of the mountain on the other side of the river. As we began our journey, some roadside vendors were just about to gather for their displays. There were already a dozen or more tourist vehicles parked with that many numbers of drivers lurking around, even though the tourism season is yet to pick up in Bhutan. While some tourists were loitering in the nearby wood,  perhaps gauging if they should venture to that height or not, few had begun the journey. Several of them had one guide for themselves who were busy briefing on the importance of Taktsang, Bhutanese culture, the meaning of the inscriptions on the rocks, forest cover of Bhutan, environment, GNH, etc. It appeared that most of them were elderly people, perhaps rich enough to visit Bhutan as tourists (we call them high-end). We were all walking along, side by side, at times overtaking and other time getting overtaken..

After walking for more than an hour we reached the closet landing that provides a very beautiful sight of the temple. Some of our co-walkers decided to continue while many retreated towards the cafeteria nearby indicating that they would return from that point.
After a short rest, we continued  towards the temple and found many people including Bhutanese pilgrims and the tourists had already reached up while some walked almost close with us. We sat opposite to the temple talking/debating about the history of its construction (very sketchy) - the chronology, the name of the builder, year of fire tragedy etc...

We finally went into the premise and tried entering each temple compartment and offered our prayers. As we returned, I saw most of these tourists asking lots of questions which I only hope our tourist guides are capable of answering. My faith on our tourist guides was shaken when a lady tourist (sounded like a Thai) requested to enter one other compartment that the guide had decided not to and he reacted in Dzongkha -tatara nga, mo nangna ra dam zhahungo! (I will just now lock her inside). This triggered a round of laughter from his guide friends who had gathered around the place. She understood that he was unhappy and sensing this on her face, the guide in turn immediately tried making his face look normal, and asked her to follow him into this chamber of lhakhang - but not before doing some damage to our culture. 


We returned to the gate, picked up our stuff and gradually started returning. On the other side we stopped for some more pictures and eagerly awaited snacks and tea. As wee were discussing this nasty behavior of the guide, my eyes caught sight of the flattering plastic bags and papers (against the beautiful colorful flags)  on the cliff below the temple. They were mostly concentrated below the residence of the monastery  residents. There is no possible way to get rid of those alraedy on the cliff, but we can definitely put a stop on such careless disposal of the wastes.

It was almost past two in the afternoon when we decided to bid a good bye to this wonder piece of Bhutan (perhaps of the world) and quickly started descending. The tourists were returning too and many of them already were familiar faces and there were occasional warm wishes of Kuzuzangpo.


We had a late lunch at the bank of Pachhu before we retreated to unpredictable future!!

Till next time!

Cost of Democracy

As Bhutan embarked on democracy in 2008, the country's entire machinery including civil servants, police and armed forces were mobilised for several months in preparation for and execution of elections. There were electorate education drives reached out to every nook and corner of the country. This was followed by mock elections running into several weeks.  All in all it was an unprecedented event for Bhutan and the Bhutanese. By the time two elections were completed in April of 2008, tens of millions of hard earned and hard borrowed money was spent. Many people even were quietly opposing such expensive elections. It was logical to think - perhaps this money could have been easily  invested for much needed  road and bridges that are crucial for the development and the welfare of the country. After all the governance, in whatever form,  is all about the welfare of the citizens.

I have absolutely no intention to oppose democracy nor I would make fuss about a reasonable expenditure made for the process of election to ensure informed, free and fair election for  a truly vibrant democracy. It is only under democratic conditions that every citizen can rightfully demand services from the elected government for better livelihood and aspire for higher goals. However the first election in Bhutan was definitely superfluous, unsustainable and beyond the means of the Bhutanese, however it was managed.  In any case,even  after so many expensive awareness campaigns, many voters in 2008 elections reportedly pressed unintended buttons!

We are just about one year away from second election. I would like to suggest to EC to do some soul searching (they could be already doing!), do cost-benefit analysis and set new standards for all concerned to control extravagant expenditures.
Some of the cost saving activities could be:
1. Let the Election Officers in the Dzongkhag be the election head and do not appoint another official except where there are more than two constituencies.
2.Completely do away with national observers. They are ceremonial figures and add no value to the process. Instead empower the local authority for monitoring the proper election process in each constituency with no additional allowance unless for travel, which will be very minimal.
3. Do not depute too many officials for the process at the voting centers particularly where the voters are few. In most centers one person can manage most activities, viz, checking the list, marking the fingers and also can monitor the buzzer. Two people are more than adequate in most of our voting centers.
4. Why security in non-border areas? If at all needed keep very minimum.
5. There is no big urgency to announce the results on the same day. Take your time and use the resources in the constituencies optimally.

Hope we can have a successful second election at a 50% less cost than the 1st one. After all there would not be elaborate electorate education nor a mock election prior to the second parliamentary election!!